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chap, xiii FRAUDS IN COTTON CLOTHS
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about 200 pieces, among which five or six and up to ten pieces may be inserted of less fine quality, thinner, shorter, or narrower than the sample of the bale ; this cannot be ascer­tained without examination piece by piece. The fineness is judged by the eye, the length and breadth by measurement. But a still greater refinement is practised in India, which is to count the number of the threads which ought to be in the breadth according to the fineness of the sample. When the number is lacking it is thinner or narrower or coarser. The difference is sometimes so imperceptible to the eye that it is difficult to discern it without counting the threads,1 neverthe­less this difference amounts to a considerable sum in the price of a large quantity, for it requires but little to abate an ecu or even two ecus on a piece when the price is from 15 to 20 ecus the piece. Those who bleach these cloths, in order to save something for their own profit out of the quantity of lemons which are required, beat the cloths on stones, and when fine the beating does them much injury and diminishes their price.2 It should be remarked that the Indians, when making their cloths, if the piece is worth more than 2 ecus, insert at either end threads of gold and silver, and the finer the cloth, the more of these threads do they insert, the price of which amounts to nearly as high a figure as that of the cloth itself. It is for this reason that it is necessary to forbid the workers to insert these threads of gold in cloths ordered to be made for export to France—the gold and silver, which the Indians insert as an ornament in their own cloths and garments, being of no use to the French. But for the cloths ordered for Poland and Muscovy, it is necessary to have the gold and silver in the Indian style, because the Poles and Russians will have nothing to do with the cloths if they have not got the threads of gold and silver. It is necessary also to take care that they do not
every one who deals with them is perfectly aware of the circumstance, and although in the course of his life any weaver may not ever have an opportunity of gaining by this means.' (F. Buchanan, in Martin, Eastern India, i. 355.)
1 The Manchester goods of the present day are subjected to the same examination in India. It is a matter of some notoriety that fraud in Connexion with them is not unknown.
* The destructive methods of the modern Dhobi or washerman are familiar to all Anglo-Indians.