on it the great idol which they call Ram Ram.1
Only the head, which is of black marble, can be seen, and he has for
eyes what appear to be two rubies. All the body from the neck to the
feet is covered by a robe of red velvet with some embroidery, and the
arms cannot be seen. There are two other idols beside him 2 feet in
height or thereabouts ; they are arranged in the same manner, save that
they have the faces white, and they are called Becchor.2 I
also saw in this pagoda a machine 15 to 16 feet square and about 12 to
15 feet high, covered with painted calico on which all kinds of demons
are represented. This machine was supported on four small wheels, and I
was told that it was the car on which their great god is placed at the
solemn days when he goes to visit the other gods, and is taken to the
river by the people on the occasion of their principal festival.3
The fourth pagoda is that of Tirupati,4
in the province of Carnatic, towards the Coromandel coast and Cape
Comorin. I went to see it when I was going from Masulipatam to
Gandi-kota 6 to join the Nawab Mir Jumla. It is a large
pagoda, surrounded by numerous small ones, and by many dwellings for
the Brahmans ; this makes it appear like a town. It has around it many
tanks, and the superstition is so great that a passer-by dare not take
water from them unless a Brahman give it to him.
1 Kesavadeva, Krishna.
8
This word represents none of the many names of Krishna and his consorts
unless the word is a corruption of Ranchhor (see p. 185 above).
• Growse {op. cit., 261) gives a photograph of the great car used at the Seths' temple.
4
Tripeti in the original; more correctly it is Tirupati, commonly called
Tripatty, in the District of North Arcot. In some respects it is
regarded as the most sacred temple in Madras. The principal temple is
at Tirumala, 6 miles distant. From all parts of India pilgrims flock
there, bearing large offerings with them [Imperial Gazetteer, xxiii. 393 f.).
6
Indecote in the original. In vol. i, p. 217, Tavernier gives his route
between Madras and Gandikota when he saw this temple. There he speaks,
however, of Courua or Kuruva-bandalu, which is a different place.