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Ch. 18: Cutting and Polishing

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CUTTING AND POLISHING
173
by caravan, brought these stones, or a knowledge of their style, from the far Orient to Constantinople, whence they were made known to France, Italy, and Holland.1
That such forms of gems were made in Paris and in Venice as early as the thirteenth century is certain. In 1290 a.d. a society of lapidaries was formed at Paris, and at the close of the fourteenth century there were professional diamond cutters of somewhat higher skill in Nuremburg. In 1365 a.d. an inven­tory of the jewels of Luigi d' Angio was made, which mentions a diamond having eight facets and another shaped like a shield. The facets here spoken of may be only flat sides such as any true octahedral crystal presents.2
One of the first, if not the first, of European workmen to • attain any distinction as a diamond cutter was named Hermann, living in Paris about 1407 a.d., and it seems to be certain that from his time or the beginning of the fifteenth century the busi­ness of polishing and developing the diamond became an estab­lished industry in western Europe. Gems in the rough were somehow finding their way from India and Borneo, and were coming into the market not only among kings and the members of the royal households but among noblemen and burghers of great wealth. In 1465 a.d. there were three registered diamond cutters living in the city of Bruges. Perhaps these cutters were associated with Louis de Berquem, a native of that city, who an­nounced in that year a new method of cutting diamonds and established a guild of diamond cutters.
The method which he pursued and the forms which he evolved were deserving the name of a new discovery of which he was truly the inventor. With whatever assurance others may claim to have invented the art of faceting or of cutting diamonds,
1 "Precious Stones and Gems," Streeter. "A Treatise on Diamonds and Precious Stones," Mawe, 1813. "Treatise on Diamonds and Pearls," David Jeffries, 1 750-1751. "On Gems and Precious Stones," Robert Dingley, Phil. Trans. Abi. IX, 345, 1747. " Le Grand Lapidaire," Sir John Mandeville, Paris, 1561. " Les Merveilles des Indes Orientales," etc., Robert de Berguen, 1661. " Voyages en Turquie, en Perse et aux Indes," Tavernier, 1676.          2 Ibid.
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