the form of jewelry. Pearls, emeralds, and hyacinths were not
allowed for baldricks and the trappings of horses, and men were
forbidden to embellish the clasps of their tunics or mantles
with precious stones of any kind.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, the trade in gems
became obsolete until it was revived at the Renaissance. The
early Christian writers condemned the extravagant use of
jewels, and this sentiment has been cherished by some
relig-ious sects and individuals ever since. Anathemas and
prohibitions against excessive luxury have by no means been
confined to the church ; secular writers have fulminated the
most scathing satire against this human weakness, displayed by
both sexes. Laws were at one time enacted in Florence
prohibiting women from wearing jewels in public, and other
instances are on record showing the opinions of lawmakers in
regard to the influence of extravagance in dress upon the
public interests of states.
The discovery and conquest of a new continent had a
tendency to intensify the innate passion for ornament, throughout Europe.
In France this propensity received a temporary check in
consequence of the sumptuary laws enacted during the reign of
Charles IX., but they were ignored by the nobles, who carried
their luxurious habits to a ruinous excess. The cost of a
court dress was almost fabulous; nearly every article was
loaded with pearls and precious stones. Though still more
stringent regulations were imposed by Louis XIII. and Louis
XIV., yet never before had extravagance been carried to such
a height as during this period, and the use of precious stones
exceeded all former examples in the history of that country,
until it received a check at the Revolution.
The liberal use of costly jewels has not been confined to the
