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THE DIAMOND.
189
of very ancient church ornaments cut as four-sided pyramids,
and by the cut diamonds mentioned in the inventory of the
jewels of the Duke of Anjou, in the fourteenth century.
Probably the truth lies between these opposite statements ;
that though the lapidary of Bruges did not invent the art of
cutting, he introduced many improvements by the use of the
polishing wheel and by facets cut according to mathematical
principles, which placed the business among the sciences as
well as the arts.
Amsterdam has held the foremost position for diamondcutting, though it has had its rivals in other places. A society
of lapidaries was formed in Paris the last of the thirteenth
century, and during the supremacy of Cardinal Mazarin, it
held an important place in the circle of the arts ; but the business finally passed to Amsterdam, where it maintained its
supremacy for a long period. Mr. Costar's establishment in
that city is claimed to be the largest of the kind in the
world. It has been estimated that more than fifteen-sixteenths
of all the diamonds cut and polished, at least to a very recent
date, have passed through the hands of the Amsterdam lapidaries, of whom there are ten thousand constantly engaged in
this occupation. During the last century, the chief seat of
the business was London, and those cut there commanded a
higher price than those of the modern Dutch finish ; but this
city could not compete with her rival, and the industry declined until the discoveries in South Africa, which gave it a
fresh impetus. The opinion has been expressed that the best
cutting and polishing in Europe, at the present day, are done
in Paris ; while London is the greatest market for rough
diamonds from all the different mines.
Diamond-cutting is performed very successfully in the
United States by Messrs. Tiffany and Company, New York,