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Brilliant

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88
GEMS.
sets." Double brilliants are those cut in sixty-four facets, thirty-two upper and thirty-two lower; and the sets of these met with in commerce are called double sets.
The Holland rose diamonds are cut in twenty-four upper facets, arranged so as to have the form of a cupola, the lower part remaining flat and smooth. "When this work is perfect the stone is said to be well crowned. The rose diamonds having six, eight, or twelve facets are called Antwerp rose. Those called " fiamminghi," or half brilliants, have thirty-two upper facets, and a smooth surface underneath, the lower part being wanting. To these the deficient part is frequently added, being formed of common crystal equally facetted, and joined to the diamond by means of mastic ; in this case it is called " doubled diamond."
In working the diamond there are three operations, viz., cleavage, cleaning, and polishing.
The weight of the finished diamond differs sensibly from that of the rough stone, as in the cutting and other operations a considerable part is lost.
Barbot calculates this diminution to be forty per cent, in diamonds of one carat, and fifty in the larger ones.
A brilliant is considered perfect when it has a regular form, a very clear colour, and is without spot or defect inside or outside. With respect to the prices of these gems, we give here Barbot's table of current prices at Paris in 1858 :
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