PRECIOUS STONES 43
very
imperfect. However, if a brilliant stone be imperfect, it would be
still better without the imperfections; and though it must be fine
material to be brilliant in spite of poor cutting, yet recutting would
improve it. Care should be exercised about the recutting of old stones,
as many lose color by the operation. Two things the old cutters
knew,—to cut for weight, and for color. In recutting their work, there
is always considerable loss in weight, often of color. It is best,
therefore, to consult a cutter experienced in handling such stones
before ordering them to be made over.
There
are certain angles and arrangement of the facets, suited to its
refraction, which hold and embody the light falling upon it, and best
assist the natural power of the stone also to reflect and disperse rays
of light. The nearer it is cut to that ideal the better; but to cut to
exact proportions, the cutter must be expert, and prodigal of his time
and material. It costs much more to cut a stone to ideal proportions
than to cut the proportions to the stone. A stone cut for
weight may yield fifty to sixty per cent.; for perfection,
thirty-eight or forty per cent. A cut diamond should show, when faced
up, an even distribution of light. If too shallow or too deep, the
centre will be black and vacant. The reason for this, proportions,
facets, etc., are described in the chapter on cutting.
Flaws
which "do not hurt the brilliancy of a stone are immaterial, though
they materially affect the price, because any one, however inexpert,
can discover by inspection, and recognize them as faults. Carbon spots
offend, as they can be seen with the naked eye. Large cracks in the
grain of the stone, imperfect crystallization giving an ice-like
appearance, and holes in the surface are all serious objections and
reduce the value considerably; but slight grain marks, needle-point
bubbles, or specks, should not weigh in the slightest degree against
the more important items, brilliancy and color.
For various reasons, variation in light, conditions of the