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Ch. 6: Cutting

Ch. 6: Cutting Page of 237 Ch. 6: Cutting Text size:minus plus Restore normal size   Mail page  Print this page
62              PRECIOUS STONES
Though a buyer of diamonds cannot always tell by meas­urement whether or not a stone is cut to its best proportions, he can decide the question by its appearance. A stone prop­erly proportioned shows an equal distribution of light and brilliancy. The centre under the table is as full of light, re­flected by the back facets, as the edge of the stone from the table to the girdle, where it is cut up to receive light and reflect it from the surface. If the stone be too shallow or too deep, the light entering the stone is not thrown sufficiently into its body, but passes out around the culet, leaving a dead centre. In stones cut too deep this results in a black " well" through the centre of the stone; if too shallow, there is a different but similar effect of weakness which produces a glassy appearance. Such stones are termed " fish-eyes."
Since the trade have found how important it is to have a proper " spread" to the stone, and that one of the same diameter weighing less may be more brilliant than another which is heavier, there has been a tendency to demand stones too shallow for the best results. It is important that there shall be sufficient depth from the girdle to the culet; nor does this sufficiency, coming on the under side, as it does, almost to a point, add much to the weight. Thickness should be avoided at and above the girdle. If a diamond shows a full volume of brilliancy both when held near by and at arm's length from the eye, its proportions cannot be far wrong. If it shows weakness or a dead centre, it is not a good stone to buy or sell, though there is a demand for them, generally from people who have a mistaken notion that thin stones give them more show for their money. The actual size of a " fishy" stone never impresses the eye so much as the brilliancy of a smaller well-cut stone. Dealers should remember that while in " lumpy" stones they pay for weight of material which is detrimental, a sufficient depth is necessary to secure that bril­liancy which is the chief beauty of the diamond. Figures on Plate XIX. illustrate the manner in which a ray of light trav-
Ch. 6: Cutting Page of 237 Ch. 6: Cutting
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