66 PRECIOUS STONES
rose
of twenty-four facets. This is cut also with twelve or less. The " rose
recoupe" of thirty-six facets is shown in Fig. 7. Fig. 4, Plate XIIL,
is the " marquise" rose, and Fig. 5 the " pendeloque" rose, both having
twenty-four facets. Fig. 8, Plate XIIL, is the " double" rose of
forty-eight facets.
" Briolettes" are pear-shaped or oval stones faceted all over with triangular facets, as in Figs. 1, 3, and 6, Plate XIIL
The " pendeloque" is a brilliant-cut pear-shaped stone, as in Figs. 8 and 9, Plate XIV.
The " rondelle" is a flat, circular stone with faceted edges, as in Fig. 7, Plate XIIL
"
Indian-cut" is a clumsy form of the single brilliant-cut, adopted by
East Indian cutters for the purpose of getting as much weight after
cutting as possible. -It does not meet European, still less American,
requirements, and must genÂerally be recut for those markets.
"
Point"-cut is seldom found except in antique jewels. It is produced by
polishing the faces of a regular octahedron to a double, pointed,
four-sided pyramid.
The
natural shape of many crystals is such that much time, labor, and
material are saved by first cleaving them into a shape more
proportionate to the cut stone. By this process it is possible also to
bring to the surface serious flaws in the interior of the crystal, and
eliminate them in the polishing. The cleaver splits off badly flawed
and imperfect pieces, leaving the clear, sound parts for cutting, and
in various ways, by taking advantage of its cleavage, manipulates the
crystal so as to get the maximum of value at a minimum cost of labor
and waste material.
Although
about twenty-five per cent, only of the diamonds found require
cleaving, much of the success of a cutting establishment depends upon
the judgment and skill of the man who does this work.
To cleave, the crystal is fastened to the end of a stick and a V-shaped incision made in the grain with a sharp piece of