minutes
these boats were swarming about our ship. At the first mention of price
by the Chileans who manned these boats, we recognized the crass
absurdity of their demands. They could not, so they said, land us for
less than thirty-six sous each—three reales in Chilean currency.*
Obviously such a sum was prohibitive to men who had passed through the
hands of Californian companies, who had been stranded at Nantes,
remaining there fifteen days, who from Nantes had been sent to Havre,
and who had remained six weeks in Havre. At this price half of us might
perhaps have been able to land, but one-half of this half could not
have returned to their vessel.
Having
keenly argued in behalf of our interests, we finally fixed the price at
one real. Moreover, under these trying circumstances the brotherly
spirit on board showed itself at its finest and best. Those who had
money looked at the money in their hands and then smilingly held out
their hands to their comrades. Those who were short the full amount, or
those who had nothing, came over and helped themselves from the hands
extended by their friends. The price having been fixed and all now
having the amount required to go ashore, pass thirty-six hours on land,
and return, we all jumped quickly down into the boats and within
fifteen minutes were ashore. By this time it was four o'clock in the
afternoon. Once ashore we all scattered, everyone seeking what
adventures appealed most strongly, or what especially fitted the size
of his purse. Although my purse was not heavy, yet it was adequate.
Moreover, I had acquired experience from my former voyage, for in going
out into the Marquesas Islands with Admiral Dupetit-Thouars, I had
previously touched at Valparaiso. I was somewhat familiar, in
consequence, with the country.
Mirandole,
who was aware of my past experiences, put himself in my charge and
refused to leave me So we went over to the Hotel du Commerce. As it was
now five o'clock and there was not much to be done that day, we decided
to visit the theatre, a magnificient building that had been put up
since my last voyage. This was situated on one of the four sides of the
plaza which, if not the most beautiful, is, with its central fountain
and its grove of orange-trees as dense as an oak grove and full of
golden fruits, at least one of the most delightful places in the
world. In this place, with no other distractions than our day-dreams,
refreshed by the evening wind, and inhaling the
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