CUTTING AND MOUNTING
The
condition in which gems are found in nature is rarely such as,
according to the general notion of human kind, exhibits their greatest
beauty. In the state of nature, the surfaces of gems are generally
dull and lusterless; their shape is irregular, and their mass is
permeated by flaws and imperfections. Moreover, the powers of
reflection and refraction of light, which give gems their superior
brilliancy and fire, can only be brought out in perfection when the
stones are shaped with reference to their internal structure. Hence,
from the earliest times, man has endeavored to increase the beauty of
gems by bringing them to a condition of the highest possible polish
and luster.
The
progress of this art has been a gradual and slow one; but in its
present development it affords an opportunity for. the exercise of
knowledge and skill of a high order. It is true that from time to time
certain art critics, among whom was Ruskin, have urged that gems in
their native state are more beautiful than when cut, but such views
overlook the obvious enhancing of the optical qualities of a gem by a
proper cutting. The mere facetting of a stone may be, as these critics
claim, an expression of a somewhat vulgar taste; but cutting a stone
with reference to its optical structure applies an intelligent skill
which can but prove enhancing to its natural beauty. Occasionally a
diamond or ruby crystal is found of sufficient regularity of form and
purity to make it available in its natural state for use as a gem; but
ordinarily the art of the lapidary is needed to bring from precious
stones an exhibition of their full beauties, and fit them for the
highest purposes of ornament. On the other hand, there is a common
notion as to the amount of improvement that can be made in a stone by
cutting or facetting, which is generally a mistaken one. There is no
stone so dull and lusterless that some one will not think that it would
be beautiful if it could only be cut and polished. But as a matter of
fact, cutting or polishing usually changes the appearance of a stone
very little, and a stone which is not attractive in color and
transparency before cutting is not likely to be after. The skilled
lapidary, it is true, can select the most favorable parts of a mass for
cutting, but more than this he cannot do; and much disappointment may
be avoided if only those stones are
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