As
an industry already worthy of the name, it was conducted at Bruges
towards the end of the same century, whence, we are told, the
apprentices once more migrated to Paris, some of them also founding
establishments in Amsterdam, the present centre of the diamond industry.
Cardinal
Mazarin, a lover and enthusiastic collector of gems, protected and
regenerated the art of diamond cutting in Paris during the second half
of the 17th century. Since the year 1800, the Dutch industry may de
said to have triumphed over all others. From that time diamond cutting
has never been an important trade either in London or Paris, in both of
which capitals, however, work of the highest perfection continues to be
carried out.
Mr.
Coster, formerly at the head of the diamond cutting industry of
Amsterdam, considers that the unprecedented quantity of 2,500,000
carats of diamonds are now annually cut in that city. We must admit
this to be an illustration of expansion, unequalled in any other trade
since 1800, when the same city scarcely averaged an output of 15,000
carats.
There
seems to be some justification for this gigantic estimate, inasmuch as
motive power, now so easily obtainable, permits some 2,000 independent
workmen to operate in their own homes, outside the sphere of
statistical observation. From data, however, which I have collected in
Amsterdam while compiling the facts for this paper, I find that the
city is known to employ 8,000 skilled splitters, cutters, and
polishers, producing an average during the last rive years of 20,000
carats per week, or 1,040,000 carats per annum. At this moment it is
believed that Amsterdam, in. its, regular workshops, is turning out
1,500,000 carats per annum.
It
may truthfully be said of remarkable diamonds, up to the recent time of
the Cape discoveries, that their value was vastly overestimated. It
seemed as if, because they were far beyond the reach of ordinary
buyers, there could be no harm in over-stating their value to an extent
simply based upon their weight, but with little reference to the actual
quality of the gems.
A
glaring instance was Rome de Piste's estimation of the Braganza
diamond, weight 1,680 carats, which he says was worth ,£224,000,000
sterling,- or about £ 80 sterling per
carat for the multiplicant of the square of its whole weight. This is
aside from the fact that the Braganza has never been proved to be a
diamond.
Again,
the Orloff diamond ' of the Russian sceptre, weighing 193 carats, Mas,
in the year 1800, supposed to be worth ,£4,854,728 sterling although
its actual cost was 135,417 guineas.
The
monster rose diamond of the Great Mogul weighed 279 carats, and was
valued at 380,000 guineas, and so on, until we come to the Regent,
weighing 1364 carats, and valued at 208,333 guineas, although its
actual cost was half that amount. The most palpable absurdity, however,
is Dutens' valuation of that uninteresting gem, the Sancy, weighing 55
carats, which he states to be much above 25,000 guineas. 1 can find no
contemporary estimate of a diamond of similar weight at more than £,9,500-
The
foregoing instances apply exclusively to the diamonds of the various
Last Indian localities, known in our markets as "Golkonda," which had
been explored since the time of Alexander, and which had yielded, the
total supply of these gems until the lirazilian discovery in 1720.
The
Last Tndian diamonds are by many authorities said to have been of liner
quality than those of more recent discovery. While I do not share that
opinion, I admit (hat they yielded a larger proportion of pure gems,
and that they are both denser and harder than any others.. I am
confirmed by Thomas Collingwood Kitto as to their greater hardness, and
by personal experiments
*
Orlotf paid the merchant from whom he obtained this gem the sum of
£90,000 ia cash, besides giving him an annuity of £1,000 a year. It may
interest you to know that the true name of the "Orloff" stone is said
to be "Koh-i-Tur," or " Sinai,"—Edwin AY", Streeter
