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Ch. 3: Pearls in Ceylon

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CEYLON PEARL FISHERIES.
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against time, cannot always nicely discriminate, numbers of other shells and foreign substances are brought up with the pearl oysters; Amongst the shells are pinnae (the sharp points of which occasionally severely hurt the feet of the divers)", cowries and a good many chanks. These latter are of market value, and as they are not plentiful enough to induce the divers to neglect the pearl oysters, the divers are kindly allowed to sell what they bring up. No royalty is charged and all attempts of the traders present to secure a monopoly have been resisted. At this fishery, as at all others, the hands of the divers are considerably cut in the course of their shell collecting at the bottom of the sea. The contingent of traders received yesterday by a brig from Colombo an ac­cession of Parsee buyers, but neither they nor a grand swell of a " Sett" (another form of Chetty, of course) from Bombay have personally put in an appearance at the sales. They doubtless act through deputies. The " Sett," indeed, asserts he could not allow the hoi polloi come between the wind and his " nobility." The great Madras merchant who has purchased fully three-quarters of a million of shells, has been the subject of some boycotting by rivals, but for all such contingencies, including that of a strike of coolies yester­day, when the ringleader declared they would not work, even if the Queen followed up the command of the Government Agent! Feeling that this was distinct high treason, I requested Mr. Twynam to gratify me by adding the sensation of a military execution to the other exciting incidents of the fishery. There, in readiness, fully armed were the semi-military police, whose bugle call awakens us all at 5 a. m.; whose words of command at drill, we hear at in­tervals during the day, while the sentries give Mr. Twynam a Field Officer's honors, merely carrying arms to others. This was the only reasonable request which Mr. Twynam refused me, and on the whole, I supposg, he acted as pro­perly as did my old friend, District Judge Toussaint of Point Pedro, when he declined to obey Sir Edward Barnes' order to give a man 30 lashes, without trial. 1 was struck with the beautiful smoothness and solidity of the beach here, as I walked along it this morning. No doubt this is due to the large amount of alluvial soil brought down by the Modaragam and other rivers. The firmness of the beach greatly facilitates the operation of landing the oysters from the boats which run right on the shore. There is quite a change in the weather, the sky clouded, the breeze cool, lightning flashing incessantly at night and thunder rumbling. There will probably be occasional squalls, but there are no tokens of weather which will stop what I hope may fulfil its early promise by turning out a most productive fishery. One thing is certain, that Mr. Twynam and Captain Donnan will do all that men can do to deserve success. Before leaving the scene of the pearl fishery, I cannot fail to express the gratification Mr. Siedle gave us all last evening by his performances on the cornet-apiston. Classical music at a pearl fishery is enough to make the fishes join in the chorus. I must also do Mr. Twynam and Captain "Donnan justice about the weekly day of rest, which both so highly value that only special necessity would nave led them to interfere with its observance. Capt. Donnan incurred the displeasure of Mr. Birch when Lieutenant-Governor by stopping the fishery on Sunday, and Capt. Twynam told me that after a long spell of continuous fishery, the people came to him and said, " We cannot go on unless we are allowed Sunday rest."
I met here, after 41 years, Maartensz who drew entries at the Customs in my time and is now Sub-Collector of Point Pedro on my old salary of R120 a month. It was affecting to meet him, and to hear the Madras merchant say to me " You are an aged man, sir, and your good word will bring good fortune."
Quinton's Bungalow, Arippu : ij p.m.
Here I am in route for ancient and modern civilization in the shape of tanks and railways, leaving the scene of the pearl fishery regretfully behind me, as may well be the case considering the cordial courtesy and princely hospitality I have received while there. I recollect Quinton well, "a rough
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Ch. 3: Pearls in Ceylon Page of 442 Ch. 3: Pearls in Ceylon
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