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Jewelry of the Ancients

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JEWELRY OF THE ANCIENTS.
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are set at equal distances on the band, all but one being un­polished. The edges of the circlet are bordered with a row of Pearls set close together. The large Sapphire at the back is surrounded by four green stones, cut oblong ; but their exact species has not been ascertained. Jn the deed by which Queen Elizabeth of Hungary pledged this crown to the Emperor Frederic IV., the stones are enumerated as being 53 Sapphires, 50 Rubies, one Emerald, and 320 Pearls. It is singular that the four green stones at the back are not entered in this list ; perhaps they are in fact only prases, and therefore not reckoned amongst the other stones of value.
It will be remarked from the foregoing details that, although the Byzantine jewellers had still at their command abundance of Sapphires and of the finest quality, the true Emerald had become very scarce. Yet late under the Lower Empire it was still profusely employed in the decoration of the imperial vest­ments, although ever accounted as next in value to the Diamond. Claudian enumerates amongst the treasures left by Theodosius under the guardianship of Stilicho—
" Sidonias chlamydes et eingula baccis Aspera, gemmatasque togas, viridesque smaragdis Loricas, galeasque renidentes hyacintliis."
" Sidonian mantles rich with purple fold, Belts bossed with pearls, robes stiff with gems and gold, And breastplates shining green with emeralds bright, And helmets rich with precious sapphires dight."
In illustration of the last line, it may be remarked that his predecessor Constantine often figures upon his copper coinage in a helmet studded with gems set close together. This jewelled helm was the origin.of the crown imperial in its present form; the gradual transition from the defensive to the decorative head-covering being easily traced upon the series descending of the Byzantine solidi. As to the excess to which this department of luxury, like all the rest, had been pushed by the Romans of more opulent times, a single anecdote of Pliny's will be a sufficient example (ix. 58) :—
" I have myself seen Lollia Paulina (once the wife of the Emperor Caligula), though it was on no great occasion, nor she in her full dross of ceremony, but at an ordinary wedding-dinner — I have seen her entirely covered with Emeralds and Pearls strung alternately, glittering all over her head, hair, bandeau,
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