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Ch. 2: Forms and Materials of Rings

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74
RINGS
on the gold hoop, two nude figures bearing in their hands torches, the design continuing completely around the hoop; about the figures are doves and flowers. This beautiful specimen of goldsmiths' work belongs to the first half of the sixteenth century. The pose of the small figures has been wonderfully adapted to the curve of the ring.10
To a special class has been given the name " icono­graphic rings," this designates those bearing, either on the bezel or the sides, images of the Virgin and Child or of the saints. These rings, which date from a period running from 1390 to about 1520, are peculiar to Eng­land and Scotland. The material is either gold or silver, those of the latter metal showing much ruder workman­ship than was devoted to the gold rings.11
What must have been regarded in its time as an ex­ceptionally ornate ring is listed in an inventory of 1416. It is described as a gold ring having a helmet and a shield made of a sapphire, the shield bearing the arms of "Mon­seigneur." As supports of the shield were an emerald bear and a swan made of a white chalcedony.12
An ornate though tasteless type of Italian rings were those called " giardinetti," showing flower baskets, jar­dinières, or nosegays, the flowers being figured by precious stones and pearls, with stems and leaves of gold. As the aim was purely decorative, the stones and pearls
10  C. W. King, " Notices of Glyptic Archaeology exhibited by the Archseological Institute in June, 1861," London (Report from Archaeological Journal), p. 12.
11 " Catalogue of the Special Exhibition of Works of Art at the South Kensington Museum, June, 1862," section 32, " Rings," by Edmund Waterton, p. 622.
12 De Laborde, " Notice des émaux du Musée du Louvre," 2d Part, " Documents et Glossaire," p. 131, s. v. Anel.
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