uted
to the time of a twelfth-century duke of Burgundy, whose crusading
expedition did not extend much beyond the frontiers of Portugal.73
More than likely Moorish influence, or that of the Orient at least, was
a determining factor, for the study of zodiacal influences was eagerly
pursued in Spain in the thirteenth century and earlier, as is witnessed
by the curious Lapidario of Alfonso X, the Wise, composed in the latter
half of that century. The survivance of this style in Madeira depends
quite probably upon one of those rather inexplicable chances that
cause the production of a certain class of jewels or ornaments, when a
curious or unusual example strikes some tourist's fancy, and he shows
it to friends at home ; these in their turn will ask for it when they
go to the same place, thus creating a demand and a local fashion. Rings
of this kind are brought from Madeira by sailors and travelling
jewellers, and are found at a number of places, including the west
coast of Africa.
Many
gold zodiac rings of a simple type are made on the Gold Coast and
brought thence to Europe. The hoop is a flat band, on which the
conventional symbols of the zodiacal signs are soldered, scroll borders
also being applied in the same way.74 While these rings are
totally lacking in artistic quality, their production on the Gold Coast
may indicate that long ago some better work of the class was done here,
probably under Portuguese influence.
73 Communicated by Mrs. Isabel Moore, formerly of Woodstock, N. Y., now in the Azores.
74 O. M. Dalton, " Franks
Bequest, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, Early Christian, Byzantine,
Teutonic, Mediaeval and Later [British Museum]," London, 1912, p. 347,
No. 2514, fig.