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Ch. 9: Ring Making

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362
RINGS
cases, when such a tight ring has been cut from the hand, the present writer has seen that the entire finger under the ring was an open wound, occasionally a deep one.2
Throughout Europe—England and the Continent— narrow gold rings are generally worn, almost invariably of 22-carat gold ; among the poorer classes, the standard falls to 18-carat—never lower. In the United States the correct wedding ring is a 22-carat ring, but away from the large cities and among their less prosperous inhabitants 18-carat rings are worn to a considerable extent. These are often two, three, or four times the weight of the European 22-carat ring, flatter and sharp on the edges, thus cutting the finger. Frequently per­spiration under the ring will cause the finger to become sore and infected. The narrow ring is more rounded on the inside and never infects the finger in any way.
Charges of selling illegally stamped wedding-rings have recently been preferred in a New York court. The proceedings were instituted under paragraph 431 of the Penal Law. The marking in one case was "14 Kt. Vio," this having been stated to signify that nine-tenths of the metal was 14-carat gold and one-tenth of some baser metal. The real meaning, however, appears to be that one-tenth is of 14-carat gold, the remaining nine-tenths being alloy. The ring was found to weigh 72 grains, and on being tested at the United States Assay Office, the fineness of the entire metal was determined to be 52/1000, equivalent to a fineness of but 12-1/2 carats for the one-tenth represented to be of 14-carat gold. The utmost variation from standard permitted by the statute is one carat. The quantity of pure gold in such a ring would only be about 3-3/4 grains, worth a fraction over 16 cents. The rings were sold for $3.75 and $4.________________
2 George Frederick Kunz, " The Etiquette of Gems," the Saturday Evening Post, June 27, 1908, p. 29.
Ch. 9: Ring Making Page of 513 Ch. 9: Ring Making
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