Duke George wore on his hat, and also a clasp worth 6000 florins.1 Members
of the related houses of Anjou and Valois also held great collections.
Nor in this account should we omit some of the English sovereigns,
including especially Richard II (1366-1400), one of the greatest
dandies of his day.
During
the fifteenth century, enormous quantities of pearls were worn by
persons of rank and fashion. A remarkable 1483 portrait of Margaret,
wife of James III of Scotland, which is now preserved at Hampton Court,
shows her wearing such wonderful pearl ornaments that she might well be
called Margaret from her decorations. As this queen was praised for her
beauty, we fear the artist has scarcely done justice to her appearance;
or possibly since that period tastes have changed as to what on a
throne passes for beauty. Her head-dress is undoubtedly the most
remarkable pearl decoration which we have seen of that century.
The
uxorious and sumptuous Henry VIII of England (1491-1547) spent much of
the great wealth accumulated by his penurious father, Henry VII, in
enriching the appearance of his semi-barbaric court. In this reign, the
spoliation of the Catholic cathedrals and churches contributed many
pearls to the royal treasury ; and onward from that time, they were
prominently displayed among the ornaments of the women of rank in
England. Most of the portraits of Henry's wives show great quantities
of these gems; many of them with settings doubtless designed by
artistic Hans Holbein the Younger (1497-1543) ; and during the
succeeding reigns the women near the throne were commonly depicted with
elaborate pearl decorations.
The
cold, unflattering portraits by Holbein of the court celebrities of
that period, not only of the gracious women and of the dandified men,
but of the clergy as well, show the prominence of pearls. Note his
portrait of Jane Seymour, of Anne of Cleves, of Christina of Denmark,
and the pearl-incrusted miter of Archbishop Warham of Canterbury.
An
interesting story is told of Sir Thomas More, the learned chancellor
of Henry VIII, showing his view of the great display of jewels which
distinguished the period in which he lived :
His
sonne John's wife often had requested her father-in-law, Sir Thomas, to
buy her a billiment sett with pearles. He had often put her off with
many pretty slights ; but at last, for her importunity, he provided her
one. Instead of pearles, he caused white peaze to be sett, so that at
his next coming home, his daughter-in-law demanded her jewel. "Ay,
marry, daughter, I have not forgotten thee !" So out of his Studie he
sent for a box, and solemnlie deliv-
