The
pearls are first grouped according to the size, of which ten grades are
made. This is done by passing them successively through ten brass
saucer-like sieves or baskets {peddi), each about three and a
half inches in diameter and one inch deep. The holes in the bottom of
each sieve are of uniform size, but they are graduated in size for the
different baskets. The pearls are sifted in the basket with thr largest
holes, and those which will not pass through are of the first size. The
pearls which pass through are then sifted in the second basket, and
those retained are of the second size; and so on through the entire
series of ten sieves or baskets. Those which pass through the tenth
sieve are known as masi-tul, or powder pearls; they are of
little value owing to their very small size, and are not subject to
further classification. Of course, the attached pearls or very
irregular baroques—the oddumuttu—are not subject to the sifting process, and are valued independently of this.
Sometimes
in India, as well as in western countries, false measures are used, and
an oriental pearl merchant may have one set of sieves for use in buying
and another for selling. The rule for determining the proper size of
the holes in the first sieve is that they may pass pearls weighing 20
to the kalanchü, whence this sieve is commonly known as the "20 peddi." The second sieve is the "20 peddi," since it passes pearls weighing 30 to the kalanchü. In the proper order the other sieves respectively pass pearls requiring 50, 80, 100, 200, 400, 600, 800, and 1000 to the kalanchü.
This
use of sieves for grading the Ceylon pearls was mentioned by Cleandro
Arnobio, a writer of the latter part of the sixteenth century, in his
"Tesoro delle Gioie," and he took his description from an older writer,
Garzia dell' Horto.
After
the sifting, each of the ten graded lots of pearls are placed on pieces
of cloth for classification as to quality, shape, and luster. This
classification requires much skill and judgment on the part of the
valuer. Not only will two persons commonly fail to class a large lot of
pearls exactly alike, but one person is not likely to class the same
lot twice in precisely the same manner.
From
long established custom, recognition is made of twelve classes into
which the ten grades or sizes of pearls are divided with respect to
shape and luster, the local names of these classes giving a fair
indication of their respective characteristics. These names are :
1 Âni, "best" : perfect in sphericity and luster, the true orient pearl.
2 Anatari, "follower" : failing slightly in sphericity and luster.
3 Masanku' or Masaku: badly colored pearls, usually gray, symmetrical, and with luster.
