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THE BOOK OF THE PEARL
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a number of dozen bunches of the East Indian pearls as they are sent
from the East, strung, the ends fastened together in bunches, and then
sealed. These pearls are placed on a table and are first arranged
according to color and luster on the sorting board. They are then
grouped according to size and graduation, the greatest care being
exercised in the selection for color, luster, and form. In this way
ten necklaces may be re-strung into ten others, the necklaces probably
being improved as regards selection, or else better arranged for the
uses to which the jeweler wishes to put them.
In
the case of the larger necklaces, it frequently requires many years of
selection and arrangement before one becomes perfect enough to pass the
criticism or suit the fancy of the jeweler.
We
have no record as to when the first pearl necklace was strung, nor have
we a definite record of the first use of silk for stringing a necklace.
The earliest illustration that we have been able to obtain of the use
of pearls in the form of a necklace is the one from Susa, in which the
pearls were secured with gold. A Syrian necklace, dating about one or
two centuries before Christ, was strung by means of a bronze wire. We
will endeavor to give a few facts on the interesting process of
preparing pearls for wearing.
Pearl
stringing is an art, easy as the process may seem, and it is
interesting to note the precision, care, and delicacy with which the
pearl stringer performs his task. The first step is to grade the pearls
according to their size and color, so that they may produce the best
possible effect. The largest and finest pearl is placed in the
center-alongside of this, on each side, are laid the two pearls next in
size which are the most nearly alike in form and hue ; and so on to the
end of the necklace. This grouping requires both experience and
judgment, and is of great importance, since the value of the pearls is
often considerably enhanced by a proper arrangement. A skilful stringer
is able to grade them so cleverly that only a trifling difference will
be found in the weight of the two halves of a necklace.
The
stringing process consists in securing the end pearl by a knot to the
diamond, pearl, or other clasp which may be used. When a necklace is
being strung, the thread is passed through the metal eye, or pearl, or
other object that serves as a clasp. It is then tied with one knot,
passed through the next pearl, and knotted between that and the second
pearl, and sometimes between the second and the third, thus making the
joint doubly secure. The other pearls are then strung in their order, a
knot being placed after each fifth, fourth, third, or second pearl, or,
should there not be enough to give a proper length to the necklace,
between each single pearl. The deftness with which the knot is tied so
as not to hold the pearl too tightly, and risk the
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