the
Duc de Berri. This document was written in 1398, and it mentions that
the sale of the jewels and plate of the count produced the sum of "2390
livres tournois 11 sols 3 deniers [about $8265]." In the record we have
a description of "a large gold cup, weighing 5 marcs, 7 ounces, 1 gros
[nearly 3 lbs.], whereon there is a crown of precious stones." The
decoration of the cup comprised thirty large pearls, six balas-rubies,
and four sapphires, and we are told that the Duc de Berri retained it
for his own use.
An early mention of the use of pearls in rings occurs in the inventory of the Duc de Berri,1
to whom we have just referred. This inventory, which was made in 1416,
notes a gold ring with black enamel, set with a pearl called "the great
pearl of Berri."
The
inventory of the personal property of Marguerite, Countess of Flanders,
the mother of the Duke of Burgundy, was made in 1405.2 In
this inventory we have a list of an immense number of ornamental
objects of every sort and kind, and everything, from the ducal crown to
the smallest trinket, is garnished with pearls. In most cases the
number of pearls is given, and we find that no less than 4494 are
enumerated. Evidently the duchess was ever ready to honor the precious
gem to which she owed her'name, and fully recognized its poetical
significance. The following are a few of the more noteworthy ornaments
in the inventory :
The
circlet of the great crown, composed of eight sections ; four of which
each comprise sixteen pearls, four diamonds, and four balas-rubies,
with a sapphire in the center ; the four others contain sixteen pearls,
four diamonds, and four sapphires, with a balas-ruby in the center ;
beside this there are two pearls in each section. Also, eight large
fleurons of the great crown, four of which bear each twenty-three
pearls, five diamonds, three balas-rubies and a sapphire, and the other
four each twenty-three pearls, five diamonds, four sapphires, and a
balas-ruby; and eight small fleurons of the said crown garnished each
with a pearl, a sapphire, and a balas-ruby. The whole is valued at 8724
florins ($22,682).
A
gold cap with ten large ornaments fashioned like brooches, five of
which are each of six pearls and a balas-ruby, and the other five each
of five pearls and two balas-rubies, and between each ornament there is
a balas-ruby. This is appraised at 2159 florins ($5613).
A
headdress garnished with balas-rubies and sapphires and tassels of
large pearls, each of six pearls, and with a row of larger
balas-rubies, larger sapphires and larger pearls. This was estimated
at 2030 florins ($5278).
A gold necklace, enameled white and green, garnished with nine rubies, thir-
1 De Laborde, "Emaux," Paris, 1853, Vol. * "Inventaire des Biens de Marguerite de II, p. 437.
Flandre," Bibliothèque Nationale coll., Mo-
reau, 1725 (Mouchet 5).
