ventory
of 1544, made about the time of the accession of Francis I of Lorraine,
we read of "a very fine case of silver-gilt around which are thirteen
personages in gold, and on the lock three balases and five pearls." The
inventory of 1552, made while Charles II was duke, mentions "a cap of
crimson velvet whereon there are large pearls," and another cap
"entirely covered with pearls." It is, however, in the inventory of
1614, made a few years after the accession of Henry II of Lorraine,
that we find the greatest number of items relating to pearls. An
estimate of the value of the rings and jewels was "faicte du
commandement de son Altèze par jouailliers et Lapidaires et Espertz
dudit ars." All these jewels were to remain forever the property of the
Duchy of Lorraine. Among the items relating to pearls, the following
are worthy of note :
A
gold collar with seven settings, each containing one large diamond and
two large pearls. The diamond in the center was believed to weigh
fifteen carats, and the collar was valued at 35,000 crowns (about
$70,000).
Another
collar contained seven diamonds and sixteen pearls set in pairs, and
was considered to be worth 19,750 crowns (about $40,000).
A
collection of one hundred large pearls, some weighing twenty grains,
some twenty-four, some twenty-eight, and a few thirty-two grains, were
estimated at 12,000 crowns ($24,000).
A large pearl, very nearly pear-shaped and almost as large as a pigeon's egg, was set down at 2000 crowns ($4000).
A very fine pear-shaped pearl weighing forty-eight grains was valued at 800 crowns ($1600).
Another pear-shaped pearl weighing about thirty-two grains was placed at 500 crowns ($1000).
Four
other pear-shaped pearls, nearly as large as the one above-mentioned,
were estimated at 300 crowns ($600), while a round "pearl of Seville"
was valued at only fifty crowns ($100).
Six
clusters of pearls, each containing two of fourteen grains, and four of
eight grains, were thought to be worth 700 crowns ($1400).
A
large chalice was decorated with seven large oriental emeralds and
eight clusters, each composed of fourteen fine, round pearls, six of
twelve grains and eight of eight grains; the whole valued at 2400
crowns ($4800).
A
hat ornament composed of eleven fine rubies and ten large, round
pearls, each weighing twelve grains, was estimated at 800 crowns
($1600).
A
similar ornament, composed of thirteen rubies and fourteen pearls,
partly flat and partly round, was placed at 2000 crowns ($4000).
A
collar set with seven fine rubies and the same number of round pearls,
each weighing twelve grains, and with seven other pendant pearls, was
valued at 550 crowns ($1100).
There
was also a bed called the "bed of pearls," which was elaborately
decorated with ornamentation in gold and richly studded with pearls.