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Ch. 15: Pearls as Used in Ornaments & Decoration

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ORNAMENTS AND DECORATION
vas domino" (Since we should pour libations to God out of gems and gold, I, Suger, offer this vessel to the Lord). This vase, which is now in the Louvre and is of sardonyx, was enriched with many precious stones and with nineteen Scotch and oriental pearls. The value given was 1500 livres (about $1000).
A book beginning : "Kyrie Eleison," with covers of wood, one overlaid with gold and the other with silver. On the golden cover was an ivory crucifix, and images, in ivory, of the Virgin Mary and of St. John. The cross was bor­dered with seed-pearls, as were the diadems of the images. The cover was also decorated with an engraved crysolite, an engraved peridot, and with sap­phires, emeralds, and garnets.1
A curious item regarding the use of pearls in embroidery is con­tained in one of the inventories of the dukes of Burgundy, made in 1414; this reads as follows:
The sum of 276 livres 7 sols 6 deniers tournois (about $960), the price of 960 pearls destined to ornament a dress ; along the sleeves are embroidered the words of the song "Madame, je suis joyeulx," and the notes are also marked along the sleeves. On each sleeve are 264 pearls which help in forming the notes of the said song, numbering 142 ; that is to say, a square made of four pearls for each note.2
Mention is made in two old French documents of the use of pearls from Compiègne in ornamentation. In the "Inventaire de la royne Clémence," in 1328, we read of "a cock covered with precious stones and bearing a pearl of Compiègne"; and in the "Comptes Royaux," under date of 1353, appears this item: "For four pearls, oriental, Scotch and of Compiègne, for the said arm-chair, 48 crowns." As these pearls could not have been found in Compiègne, we may sup­pose that there was a market for their sale in that place, which gave rise to the designation.3
The English authority and writer on early English silver, F. Alfred Jones, communicated, under date of September, 1907, that pearls were rarely used in old English plate; in fact, any such embellishments were of exceedingly infrequent occurrence. They are, however, frequently mentioned in the inventory of the marvelous collection of gold plate dispersed by Charles I of England, which may have dated from the time of the looting of the churches and monasteries by Henry VIII.
The following items are from the inventories of Philip II of Spain
"Bibl. Natl. MS. français, 4611, folio, pp. 3 See De Laborde. "Emaux," Paris, 1853, 433 in parchment.                                               Vol. II, p. 437.
2 "Inventaires des Ducs de Bourgogne," De Laborde, "Emaux," Vol. II, p. 438.
Ch. 15: Pearls as Used in Ornaments & Decoration Page of 650 Ch. 15: Pearls as Used in Ornaments & Decoration
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