ORNAMENTS AND DECORATION 437
tened
by a clasp in the form of a four-leaved clover, from which depend two
other sections similar to those described above, and terminating in an
oval pearl pendant.
The
portrait of the Duchesse de Montpensier (1627-1693), the "Grande
Mademoiselle" of Mme. de Sévigné's letters, is from the "Maximes de
nostre salut," dedicated to the duchess by the author, M. de la Serre,
and is attributed to Nicolas Jarry. It represents the duchess wearing a
beautiful necklace of round pearls and a large pear-shaped pearl
earring, while another pear-shaped pearl depends from a clasp which
serves to loop up her fichu on the shoulder.
A
fine example of the Renaissance style existing in the sixteenth century
is that of a gold and enamel necklace of Italian workmanship,
embellished with pearls. This necklace was presented to the Louvre
Museum by Don A. de Rotschildt. The two-pearl motive is carried out
exquisitely, two pearls appearing in a small connecting ornament
between two larger enameled and engraved gold plaques, which represent
scenes from the life of our Saviour.
At
the exposition of 1900 there was shown in the Russian Pavilion, a most
interesting collection of jewelry of decidedly oriental character,
dating from the sixteenth to the eighteenth century. These jewels were
said to have belonged to the Emir of Bokhara. They differed slightly
from the East Indian in character, and generally consisted of
combinations of pearls, rubies, and emeralds, the three colors of these
gems predominating. One of the most interesting of the necklaces,
acquired by J. Gelatley, Esq., shows an arrangement of the pearls which
is peculiarly attractive and decorative.
The
heraldic significance of pearls has at times been very important.
While in the eighteenth century the crowns of the French nobles were
surmounted with silver points, it appears that in the sixteenth century
they were provided with pearl points. According to Rudol-phus,1
the dukes wore a leaf crown of eight leaves, with or without as many
commingled pearl points ; the marquises a crown of four leaves with
twelve pearl points, or with four groups of three pearls set one over
the other; and the counts, a pearl crown which sometimes had four
pearls in each corner, one above the other. The viscounts wore a gold
ring set with four pearls, and the barons a gold ring entwined with
pearls.
The
same is true of the English coronets. Instead of the pearls which they
bore at an earlier period, silver balls are now used on those of the
English barons, "viscounts, earls, and marquises. This change probably
owed its origin to the desire on the part of the sovereigns to confine
the official use of pearls and other precious stones to themselves.
The rules at the coronation of Edward VII forbade the use of
1 "Heraldic. Curios.," Pars III, c. 8, p. 12.
