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28 DIAMOND CUTTING
out that such makeshifts destroy their own ends.
"To the expert jeweler and diamond dealer, no further explanation is necessary to make him realize the advantages and superiority of the patented Polished Girdle diamond.
"The person more likely to be in need of guidance and information is the purchaser not thoroughly conversant with the art, and who, wishing to ascertain points of recognition, relies upon his confidence in the knowledge of ex­perienced jewelers."
A properly cut diamond should have fifty-eight facets if regularly cut, and fifty-nine if cut as a patented polished girdle. One third of its size should be above the girdle and two thirds below, and the table should be two fifths the diameter of the stone. These are the cor­rect proportions to secure the greatest bril­liancy. A stone cut too deep (that is, too thick) lacks brilliancy, and one too shallow be­comes flat in its effect and in the trade is termed a Fish-eye. In the cutting of the finest diamonds much consideration is now given to the girdle, while on the other hand many ordinary stones are cut with thick, rough gir­dles, which results in more weight being left in the stone and less expense to manufacture per carat, consequently a lower price to the