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Ch. 1: Bangkok to Muang Nan

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THE UPPER MEKONG, SIAM.                               5
The fittings of the large species of craft above described are often elaborate and almost yacht-like. A brass trimming to the gunwale, and bright red prayer-papers, are generally to be seen on board of John Chinaman. There will be pretty balustrades round the quarters where the helmsman is, partly for show, partly to keep the small fry from falling overboard. Curtains of plaited bamboo are hinged to the attap roof above the helms­man, and when shut down will keep out rain or sun. At the fore end the deck will shine with the polish given it by the constant sitting or reclining of the crew, and inside the long low roof, if there were only sufficient head­room, the floor would be declared perfect for a dance. All round are lockers, in which cotton stuffs are stored to take up-country,
or betel-box, teapot, and crockery are stowed; the comfort and luxury of some of these boats could not be surpassed.
And how they do all enjoy life! There is no hurry; if going down stream, they take it easy enough; and if going up, why over­work ? A week earlier or a week later makes no difference; and so, why not stop and have some tea and chat as they pass some friendly village, or a boat with whom last year perhaps they travelled in
Ch. 1: Bangkok to Muang Nan Page of 117 Ch. 1: Bangkok to Muang Nan
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