The
importation of rough or uncut diamonds in 1880 amounted to $129,207; in
1889 to $250,187, and the total for the decade was $3,133,529; while in
1883 there was imported $443,996 worth, showing that there was 94 per
cent, more cutting done in 1889 than in 1880, but markedly more in the
years 1882 and 1883. The large increase in importation is due to the
fact that in the years 1882 to 1885 a number of American jewelers
opened diamond-cutting establishments, but the cutting has not been
profitably carried on in this country on a scale large enough to
justify branch houses in London, the great market for rough diamonds,
where advantage can be taken of every fluctuation in the market and
large parcels purchased which can be cut immediately and converted into
cash, for nothing is bought and sold on a closer margin than rough
diamonds.
The
average wages paid in the United States are $2 per carat less bench
expenses. In Boston $3 per carat and higher is paid. In one New York
shop, where mathematical accuracy is demanded, $4 per carat is paid.
During 1893 diamond cutting was carried on in the United States by 15
firms, employing each from 1 to 20 men, the total number amounting from
130 to 150, consisting of diamond cleavers, cutters, polishers, etc.
The
American public demands a much higher quality of cutting than the
dealers of the European markets. The result is that more time is
consumed, and hence a higher rate of remuneration is demanded. But at
present less is often paid for cutting here than in Amsterdam.
Good
European workmen receive an equivalent of about $2 per carat in the
shops there, while their bench expenses are less than they are in this
country. When one considers also the fact that better work is required
here for the same wages, it will be seen that there is small inducement
for Amsterdam cutters to emigrate.
This
subject of diamond-cutting in the United States is worthy of
consideration when we remember that there have been imported into the
United States since 1868 more than $175,000,000 worth of diamonds, and
about $15,000,000 worth in the year between June, 1892, and June, 1893.
Of these, the original rough stones could not have cost more than
one-half. The difficulty with the diamond cutting industry in this
country is due, as above noted, to the inability of the dealers to
obtain the rough stones at first hand, and the fact that
diamond-cutting is an old-established industry, and in many ways waste
is prevented by a more economic system of working.
The
pioneer diamond-cutter in the United States was Mr. Henry D. Morse, of
Boston, Massachusetts, who in early life learned the engraver's art and
later became a jeweler. In 1869, Mr. Morse had delivered to him the
Dewey diamond, weighing 25-11/32 carats, which was found near Eichmond,
Virginia, and by adroit manipulation and duo regard to lights and
geometric relations, produced from the rough stone a gem weighing
ll-13/32 carats, which permanently established his reputation as a
cutter and polisher.
